Tiffany & Co. has released a new addition to the Jean Schlumberger high jewelry watch collection, reimagining the classic elements of the Sixteen Stone collection with mother-of-pearl and rubies.
The new creation interlaces 12 rubies, 12 diamonds and 18K gold "X" braided elements across the rotating outer ring of the dial, paying tribute to the extraordinary legacy of legendary designer Jean Schlumberger. This timepiece features an 18K white gold case set with 421 diamonds totaling 3.4 carats.
The inspiration for incorporating rubies into the Sixteen Stone watch design stems from Tiffany's watchmaking tradition dating back to the 19th century. Even then, the brand's designers were already using rubies in timepieces. From brooch watches and pocket watches to early wristwatches, these masterpieces now held in the Tiffany Archives bear witness to the brand's unremitting pursuit of perfectly blending exceptional gemstones with watchmaking craftsmanship.
Above: Brooch watch (1880-1893), brooch watch (1895), pocket watch (1926), wristwatch (1930-1931)
The Sixteen Stone collection was created in 1959 by the brand's legendary designer Jean Schlumberger, and its ring designs appeared in the Blue Book catalog that same year. Born into a prominent textile-manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Jean Schlumberger drew inspiration from his family's long textile heritage, using braided gold "X" elements to link a row of brilliant diamonds, forging the signature motif of the Sixteen Stone collection. The Sixteen Stone collection symbolizes the gentle nurturing of love, while the "X" braided elements serve as symbols carrying precious memories, linking together moments of love.
At the center of the dial is a fixed mother-of-pearl center disc, while the outer ring rotates freely. On the outer ring, the classic 18K gold "X" braided elements of the Sixteen Stone collection link 12 round brilliant-cut diamonds and 12 rubies, rotating freely with the wearer's wrist movements and recreating the unique liveliness inherent in Jean Schlumberger's designs.
The production of the rotating outer ring is intricate and precise, taking 25 hours in total from the casting of the gold "X" braided elements to the precise setting of the diamonds and rubies, fully demonstrating the extraordinary skills of Tiffany's goldsmiths and jewelers. Crafting the 18K gold "X" braided elements requires in-depth knowledge of materials and techniques to achieve the desired result. The first step is to create a custom mold for each piece's "X" braided elements, with the mold shape determined by the design and dimensions accurate to the millimeter. Molten gold is then poured into the mold and left to cool. Once the gold has fully solidified, it is removed and carefully hand-polished. Finally, the gold "X" braids are set onto the rotating outer ring, ingeniously linking the brilliant diamonds.
The case uses the snow-setting technique, set with 366 round brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 2.9 carats, fully demonstrating Tiffany's exquisite diamond-setting craftsmanship.
The case back is engraved with a sunburst pattern and accented with brilliant diamonds. The red alligator leather strap is paired with an 18K white gold T-shaped buckle set with 43 round brilliant-cut diamonds.
The Jean Schlumberger high jewelry Sixteen Stone watch is produced in limited quantities each year.
｜Source: Official press release
｜Image credit: Brand official
